The 5 Most Common Dodge 5.7 HEMI Engine Problems
The Dodge 5.7L HEMI engine is also commonly referred to as the 345 HEMI in honor of its 345 cubic inch displacement. It’s a long-running pushrod engine that debuted with 345 horsepower in the 2003 Dodge Ram. The 5.7 V8 remains much the same today, however, it did go through updates to improve power and fuel efficiency. Overall, it’s a reliable engine with stout performance and sound. However, no engine is perfect and this applies to this engine too. In this post, I discuss a few common failures on the Chrysler 5.7 HEMI along with symptoms, replacement, and reliability.
345 HEMI Update (5.7 Eagle)
As noted above – the engine underwent some updates during its long life cycle. We feel it’s important to lay out this information as certain updates are relevant to this common problem post.
In 2009, the 5.7L engine was revised to improve emissions, fuel economy, and performance. The revised engine is known as the 5.7 Eagle. A few notable updates include:
- Variable camshaft timing
- Cylinder head
- Intake manifolds
- Multi-displacement system (MDS)
Variable Camshaft Timing is Chrysler’s terminology for variable valve timing. This allows the engine to advance or retard cam timing for optimal performance at all RPMs. The 5.7 HEMI cylinder head is also reworked to improve flow. Intake manifolds receive an update, too. However, the 5.7 Eagle uses different manifold designs on different models. Finally, Chrysler implemented multi-displacement system technology on the 345 HEMI. This allows the engine to shut down 4-cylinders in certain situations to improve fuel economy and emissions.
These were solid updates, overall. However, as with any new technology, there are always kinks that must be worked out over time. A few of the updates may make certain problems more likely on the 5.7L Eagle. We’ll detail this more as we move through each of the common problems below.
5 Common HEMI 5.7 Problems
In no specific order, the most common 5.7 HEMI problems are:
- Engine Tick
- Exhaust Manifold Bolts
- Multi-Displacement System (MDS)
- Misfires
- Dropped Valve Seats
A few more general notes prior to discussing each of these common faults in-depth. Simply because we refer to these problems as common does not mean every 5.7 will experience them. Also, engines are subject to potential problems that we won’t cover. Earlier HEMI engines are getting old and a lot of problems become fair game on old, high mileage engines. That said, let’s move on to the problems we outlined above.
If you would rather consume this content via a video, check out our HEMI 5.7 Common Problems video below :
1) Engine Tick Problems
Spoiler – this can sometimes tie into other common problems. We’re taking a vague approach to the 5.7L engine ticking issues. Ticking on the 345 HEMI is an interesting discussion for a few reasons. Some claim that ticking is normal and doesn’t affect longevity or performance. However, engine ticks have led to other 5.7L HEMI owners replacing their entire engine. What are the potential common causes of ticking?
- Faulty lifters
- Seized lifter roller
- Exhaust manifold bolt failure
Faulty lifters and seized lifter rollers are our primary focus here. This seems to be the most common and serious cause of the Chrysler 345 HEMI engine ticking problem. It also appears most common on 2009+ models leading some to believe the multi-displacement system is to blame. It does make sense. Ultimately, the problem likely boils down to inadequate oil flow to the lifter rollers which results in seizure. The lifter then contacts the camshaft lobes which results in the ticking sounds. The metal-on-metal contact then results in shavings in the oil. If caught soon enough the oil filter should catch most shavings and prevent further damage.
However, if left for too long serious engine damage could occur. That’s besides the fact the 5.7L HEMI camshaft will require replacement anyways. The parts and labor alone of that job can cost nearly as much as a remanufactured engine. It’s a pretty serious issue. However, the scope of issues is likely been blown out of proportion as the internet tends to do with any major engine faults.
Lifter Roller Failure Symptoms
- Ticking
- Misfires
- Check engine light
Unfortunately, lifter roller problems on the 5.7 HEMI can be tough to diagnose. Many simply experience the ticking sounds and no other symptoms. However, you may notice misfires or get a check engine light if the problems are severe enough or left alone for too long.
If you’re unlucky and run into this failure it’s most likely to occur north of 100,000 miles. However, sometimes the problem pops up under the 60,000-mile powertrain warranty. For more information on the lifter roller issues the below video is a great resource:
2) Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolts
If we were to name the number one common problem on the 5.7L HEMI we would be inclined to say broken exhaust manifold bolts. Some report running into this problem multiple times. The first to give is often the rear passenger side manifold bolt. Many suspect this is the hottest part of the engine and manifold, which is why the rear bolts give out first. The idea is that the manifold actually warps towards the rear thereby causing the bolt failures. There’s not too much else to this fault on the 5.7 HEMI.
Although, one interesting talking point leads us back to the engine tick. The cause of some 345 HEMI ticks may actually be due to broken manifold mounting bolts. Of course, the ticking we discussed above is different in terms of the failure point. However, if your Chrysler 5.7 engine is ticking make sure you check the exhaust manifold bolts first. It’s typically a more common failure and a much easier and cheaper fix. All good news. It’s still a problem – just not a serious problem.
Exhaust Manifold Bolt Failure Symptoms & Replacement
The primary symptom of broken exhaust manifold bolts is the ticking noise. Broken manifold bolts on the HEMI 345 create an exhaust leak. If it’s bad enough then you may notice power loss.
A lot seem to fail even under the warranty period, so initial failures should be fixed by the dealership at no cost. Otherwise, you may be on your own for the repair. Access to the manifold isn’t too complicated for the DIY group. However, depending on the specific failure of the bolt it may require some effort and ingenuity to remove the failed bolt.
It probably makes sense to replace all of the bolts while you’re in there. This can run about $100 for the parts. Some opt for aftermarket exhaust manifold to prevent the warping. Ultimately, if the manifold itself is warped then it will continue to cause premature failures of replacement bolts.
3) Multi-Displacement System (MDS) Issues
We’ll speed things up a bit moving through this discussion as well as misfires coming up next. When cruising the 5.7 Eagle HEMI engine (2009+ update) utilizes multi-displacement technology to shut down 4 of the cylinders. It’s a great way to improve emissions and fuel economy. On the surface, there’s nothing wrong with MDS. The power from the large displacement is still there when you need or want it. However, when you don’t then the engine is more efficient. Sounds good to us. The MDS on the 5.7 HEMI can also be deactivated manually. Even better for those not interested.
However, some owners complain about the MDS on their 345 HEMI engines. Occasionally, the system seems to have its moments where engine operation doesn’t feel natural. It’s also up for debate how cylinder deactivation may affect 5.7 HEMI longevity. The technology is still relatively new so only time will tell.
There is speculation that lifter roller failures can be partially attributed to the multi-displacement system. Heat is generated by the combustion process but if certain cylinders are shut down they run cooler. Constantly changing temperatures can be bad for metal. It’s always the same 4 cylinders that the 5.7L HEMI shuts down. Concerns over longevity make sense in this aspect. We don’t want to get too technical since there are a lot of details. This is something we’ll likely address in greater depth in a separate post.
MDS Issues are Speculation
There aren’t any issues attributed directly to the multi-displacement system. However, there are engineering concepts that do suggest MDS could have negative impacts on longevity. Spark plugs can foul quickly when too cold. Lubrication may not be sufficient when cylinders are too cold. It’s a long list of possible implications.
4) 5.7 HEMI Misfires
Alright, for real we’ll speed this section up. Misfires aren’t really fair to call a common problem. Usually, misfires can be caused by other faults, like lifter roller failures. As such, it’s more of a symptom than a problem in those cases. Nonetheless, standard maintenance items can cause misfires, too. Our big focus here is the 5.7L HEMI spark plug arrangement. It uses 16 spark plugs. Yes, that’s correct – 16 spark plugs can be found in the HEMI. It leaves a lot of room for misfires to start due to old, worn spark plugs.
Again, there are a ton of other things that can cause misfires. Ignition coils, faulty injectors, internal issues like lifter rollers, etc. However, spark plugs are a basic maintenance item that can easily be overlooked. We’re guilty of it from time to time. “Oh no. Please not a misfire. What did I break this time?” Often, we simply forget the spark plugs are a bit older than we remembered.
16 spark plugs is a lot. All it takes is one spark plug that wears too quickly or fails to throw a misfire code. Spark plug failures are rare, but they should be changed every 30,000 to 40,000 miles on the 5.7 HEMI. Don’t overlook spark plugs as it’s basic maintenance that can cause annoying issues like misfires.
5) Dropping Intake Valve Seats
Another one of the main design flaws especially present in the earlier years of the 5.7 HEMI was an issue where the engine would drop intake valve seats into the combustion chamber. This usually happens when little coolant circulates through the cylinder head and the connection between the valve seats and the head can become compromised, allowing the seat to fall into the combustion chamber. This is obviously a very serious issue, as you never want foreign objects entering a cylinder, potentially doing irreparable damage to the cylinder walls and piston.
Unfortunately, there isn’t a lot of consistency here in terms of when this typically happens. Some 5.7 owners run into this issue relatively early in the engine’s life while others never encounter the issue. One commonality between most examples of 5.7 Hemis dropping intake valves is a failing or clogged cooling system.
Generally, when a 5.7 HEMI drops a valve seat, there is little coolant circulated through the cylinder head due to a coolant leak or clogged radiator. Due to the fact that these engines tend to run quite hot, an issue in the cooling system can cause the issue to overheat rapidly. Obviously, that can cause a whole array of issues, but dropped valve seats are commonly associated with 5.7 Hemis overheating. When a valve seat drops, the extent of the damage will determine your next move. If the cylinder walls and piston are heavily scored, there is a chance that replacing the entire engine will be the cheapest route.
Preventing Dropped Valve Seats
Unfortunately, there isn’t much to do in the way of preventing a 5.7L HEMI from dropping a valve seat, as it is an issue caused by an inherent design flaw in the engine. With that being said, if you were really concerned about the issue, you could opt to have the seats reinforced. This can be an expensive endeavor, as it is a head-off repair. Alternatively, you could purchase an aftermarket 5.7L cylinder head with reinforced valve seats. This is expensive too, as aftermarket heads aren’t cheap.
At the end of the day, it is a complicated issue as it isn’t a guarantee that this issue will ever happen to your 5.7 HEMI. For that reason, going with an expensive preemptive fix is a bit of a gamble. When it comes to preventing the issue in the first place, staying on top of your engine’s maintenance schedule is of paramount importance. It is also important to make sure that your cooling system is in good shape. If you notice a significant leak or abnormal engine temperatures, it is a good idea to get those issues addressed as soon as possible.
5.7 HEMI Reliability
How reliable is the 5.7 HEMI engine? Overall, it’s a stout and reliable engine. It’s certainly not the most reliable engine in the world. It’s also miles ahead of the least reliable. There’s good reason the Chrysler 5.7L has powered some flagship cars for nearly two decades. It’s a solid engine that people enjoy. Problems can and do happen, but don’t hold that against the engine. All engines have problems and this is even more true when you look at high-performance engines. Camshaft issues are the most concerning on the list, but likely a problem that is blown out of proportion. It’s still a serious problem that should be considered.
All that said, 345 HEMI reliability comes down to several aspects. Maintenance is one of the aspects we can actively control. Keep up with basic maintenance items on the 5.7L HEMI, especially timely oil changes. Otherwise, some of it simply comes down to the luck of the draw. There are plenty of other factors like how hard you push the engine, conditions the engine operates in, etc.
Let’s not stray too far off-topic. We’ll finish this with a few final thoughts. Again, the Chrysler 5.7 HEMI is a pretty reliable engine. Problems can and will occur at some point in the engine’s life. However, it’s a risk we take with all engines and the best we can do is maintain them as well as possible. 5.7L HEMI longevity should be north of 200,000 miles if well maintained. Though, sometimes people have unlucky, fluky experiences even with well-maintained HEMIs.
5.7 HEMI Common Problems Summary
Not to be too repetitive, but the HEMI 5.7L engine is an impressive unit. The pushrod design is well-proven and has been around for about a century. Also, the 5.7 HEMI specifically has been in use for nearly two decades. Something is right if Chrysler, Dodge, and Jeep are using this engine for that long. However, as with any engine, it’s susceptible to a few common design flaws. The most significant is engine tick which may indicate lifter or lifter roller failure on the 345 HEMI. It’s a serious and expensive problem if it occurs. However, it’s likely blown somewhat out of proportion on the internet.
Otherwise, look out for frequent exhaust manifold bolt problems on the HEMI engine. It’s typically not a major issue, but it can be a headache since some experience it 2-3+ times. MDS may cause problems with longevity, but it’s mostly speculation at this point. Finally, 16 spark plugs leave a lot of room for misfire problems due to old, worn plugs. Stay on top of maintenance and don’t overlook the basics.
Speaking of maintenance – do what you can to keep your 5.7 running well. Chances are, well-maintained Chrysler 5.7L HEMI engines will last to 200,000+ miles. Problems will occur along the road to old age and high mileage. However, no engine is exempt from this general concept. Overall, the HEMI is a reliable, powerful, and fun engine to drive.
Check out some of our additional 345 HEMI content including the best performance upgrades and our supercharger guide.
i have a 2005 2500 Ram Laramie with 93,000 miles and a rust hole in in the block. Is this due to cheaper materials being used now? It is above the oil filter where the oil passages are.
My friend, this is now 16 years old. Just change the car.
16 years old isn’t that old. Especially to have a rust hole in the block. And it only has 93,000 miles. “Just changing the car” is an expensive solution if you do it every 93,000 miles…
Most people have no clue what they are talking about inside of an engine I infact have been bitten buy the hemi tic the soft cam story is a fairy tale nothing wrong with hemi cams if you’re cam is gone you have the wrong machanics some in which are at dodge dealerships yes the lifters fail your question should be why and they are in fact not staying square with the cam and everyone ignores the symptoms if u have broken manifold bolts buy all means fix it but the commen sence of of a 4 stroke engine already says you should be babysitting valve travel form that point on .the eagle a specially is so well aspirated the valve will allmost not be opening before it misses but it sure will make extra heat the hemi tic has three cozzes faulty yokes unstable lifters and the biggest cozz is bad machanics mine is a 2012 and I just put cam lifters yokes timing chain and gears oil pump and all . I have been inside of engines since age ten ime in my midd 50s and don’t want too assemble engines anymore I had no choice I owed money on the truck and the repair quoted buy the dealer appeared too be a horrific patch job for 5000 bucks .what I found inside my engine was someone’s lowsey patch job .It has now cost me 31 thousand bucks too drive 50 thousand k in a truck I bought from a dodge dealership and still believe the 5.7hemi eagle is a work of art just bad machanics and poor maintenance
These Hemi engines suffer from poor design and manufacturing short-cuts plain and simple. Work of a cheap manufacturer that fails to issue Recalls for a well known problem(s). My Ram 1500 had less then 8 months use (some 17K km’s when the driver side exhaust manifold bolts snapped) now I have 40K Km’s and passenger side is now gone) plus the leaking 3rd brake light and the leaking sunroof. The truck was less then a year old when I bought it, no excuse for that nonsense. These aren’t one-of issues there are service bulletins going back 10 or more years and Ram has done nothing to fix them. Plenty of people willing to buy their crap regardless means they will continue to trade profit over quality at owners expense. Just has to live long enough to get through the warranty period. This truck isn’t worth the cost of a set of headers. The quality of my Ram 1500 echo’s the same quality issues I had with my 04′ Jeep Wrangler. A vehicle that was lucky enough to be pulled off the assembly line for a thorough Q.A check managed to get through said check with a faulty Brake Booster and a fried Torque Converter. Also, weak rear shock mounts, bent center link and cracked exhaust manifold all outside the warranty period but less than 50K Km’s.
Well, you are wrong. I have a degree in Automotive Technology, and I own a 2012 Ram 1500. I bought it with a 100,000 on it. It was well maintained, and it was all highway miles. By the time I got to 140,000 miles the lifters failed, thank God, I caught it in time to save the cam. That was a $3,500 repair. At 156,000 miles the exhaust bolts broke on bank 2 (passenger side). That was an $700 repair. Now I am at 197,000 miles and the lifters and exhaust bolts failed AGAIN!! This time the cam is more than likely chewed up. This is going to be close to a $6000 repair! I still owe $12,000 on it. So, there is no way I could trade it in at this time. I change my oil every 3,500 to 4,000 miles and I use the recommended 5w20 full synthetic oil. These failures are as a result of Fiat (yes, I said Fiat, they own Chrysler) engineers coming up with a poor design and using subpar materials (to cut down on company costs) and will not issue a recall!!!! This is a far more common problem than Fiat will admit to in their bs PR statements
I Have a 2008 and a hole in the engine block above the oil filter.If I change vehicle ,it damn sure won’t be another Dodge.64 years old and never heard of a rust hole through the block.wonder what the blocks are made of these days?
I own a 2010 Dodge pickup with a 5.7 Hemi engine with the same exact problem. There is a rust hole thru the block by the oil filter. I agree, where is the recall from Dodge?
I have the same problem rust hole through the block Never will buy another dodge. Where is the recall?
Got a 2007 ram and 2014 ram. The first and last dodge vehicles I buy. What pieces of crap. Going back to Chevy. I do dumb things every now and then and these were two.
My 04 1500 4X4 5.7 Hemi now has158K. I bought it new. It’s been a great truck. Superchiped, magnaflow catback and K&N Intake. I ran the power and tow haul modes from go. This last 15K miles or so if I tack it out to pass, the number 3 piston hits the plugs and flattens the gaps completely. This has happened 3 times now. Wear and tear I guess. Anyone ever hear of or experience this ? Thank you.
Yes, I replaced my engine for the same reason. It seems to be a crank problem where the bearings wear on one side where the block was not align bored right. the block had hot spots on one side of the crank bearing caps on every other side. It started with cylinder 3 and then was 3 and 5.
For the short term use a slightly shorter plus.
Yes the engine is on the way out.
I think this could happen if a cylinder has builded up carbon and sometimes a particle-flake of this carbon can get away from its position and the particle could come between the spark plug and piston…and flaten it down if this would take enough space… It´s a lot more possible than worn out main bearings or something else like that.
When you see how much carbon build up some engines has in it by the time then you could imagine how possible it is that this scenario could cause…because carbon on the piston or in the combustion chamber could also flake off its position where it was build up.
However, to prevent this i think it could not be bad to add fuel additives sometimes to the gasoline in the tank; Fuel additives that would clean up injectors, combustion chambers and valves.
Have a nice day & nice greetings from Bayern (bavaria, germany -> (sorry if i hadn´t the best or right words used sometimes :))
I own a Dodge Charger 5.7 and oil changes every5000 Kms with 141,000 ( reg Quaker state 5w20) the oil still looks new and runs very strong.so yes maintainance helps no ticking here hmmm.
I own a 2006 Dodge Charger which is a great runner, has 234,000 on it. Problem is the anti theft is not recognizing my fob all the time. It will go ok for several times, but then not start cause alarm doesn’t recognize mainly after it was locked. The fob Ian more than a year old, but generic looking from very 1st one. TIA
Open your key up like you are installing a new battery. You should see some contacts inside. Wipe them off. Mine had some gunk on them when I cleaned them off , worked perfectly.
Also while cleaning those contacts use a pencil eraser and rub it across the contacts. The light abrasive action works well.
My son has a 2007 Dodge Charger Interceptor. We purchased it in 2010 as a retired Police car listed on ebay. He has added just 3,000 miles in the 11 years he has owned it. It has been stored in our garage. Makes me sad to see such a beautiful car just sit…lol.
This article is fairly accurate to the experience I’ve had. I am a professional mechanic, but I only work on my stuff and build engines here and there. So I have a 2013 Ram 2500. around 123k miles, I heard what I know as a lifter sound. It was louder than the exhaust manifold leak. It turned out to be cylinder 8 exhaust lifter. The roller had seized, sheared the bearing pin and turned the cam lobe into the letter H. Heres a theory de-bunker, this motor does not have MDS. I replaced the cam, phaser, SRV valve, lifters, and oil pump. I added a 85mm throttle body, JBA headers and a big ol goofy air intake tube that K&N clearly overcharges for. I now have 226K on the motor. Thats more milage than the motor had when the lifter popped. My specualtion is that the lifter bores are too big along with the angle of the pushrods, which force the axial load of the lift partially to the side of the bore. Witness makes show the wear. Its a lack of oil. I now only use 0W oil.
The manifold bolts break in the rear of the motor. I believe this is because the Y pipe and tailpipe have much stiffer mounts then the engine does. The engine can twist in its mounts further than the exhuast pipe can twist. Resulting in broken bolts where the most forced is applied.
My 2004 Dodge Ram is the best truck ever! Bought new in 2004 it is still running and strong…find good…rides good and looks good! It now has 440,100 and drive daily…been working out of it for last 9 yrs..motor..trans and rear end have not been touched! Trans and rear end has factory oil still in them…no leaks on either one and Valve cover gaskets do not leak..Ram tough🤘🇺🇸
400k miles and has the original factory trans fluid tells me you didn’t buy that truck new and someone replaced the motor and trans as mine has been before 200k and your trans prob doesn’t work now
I bought my 2011 Ram 1500 with the 5.7 hemi new and it just clicked over 401,000 kms (250,625 miles). I was a little leary at first as I’ve always had Ford or Chev pickups. This is my first Dodge and its been every bit as reliable as any other pickup I’ve ever had. I’m 63 now and I’ve had quite a few over the years. Other than careful regular maintenance the only thing that has been replaced is the variable valve timing solenoid and the water pump. That’s it. Of course the passenger side exhaust manifold bolt broke shortly outside of warranty like they all seem to do and I’m familiar with people having the repair performed multiple times. The mechanic at the dealership told me to just leave it because it would only break again. So I didn’t bother having it repaired. I just left it and its never caused a problem. Yes it has the common exhaust leak tick after starting the engine cold but it goes away quickly as the engine warms up. I’d buy another one in a heart beat.
2016 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi. I lifter issues. the few mechanics I’ve had look into the truck said its already to late. going to need a new engine. 160,000 kms on it and it needs an engine…. what a joke. never buying a hemi again.
Can I put a 2013 5.7 in a 2006 300 C 5.7 ?
The biggest complaint I here from garages about today hemi engines is they use a cheaper material now and once the engine overheats I am told the engine is shot and will need replaced. Seems the cheaper material make the engines not able to take the heat.
If this is true then the engines are no longer worth spending money on because every engine will be overheated at least once in its life unless you are super lucky.
told by my dyno tuner that my 2010 dodge 5.7 L engine has endemic code input problem as listed in forums . This is their excuse as to why they cannot correct free revving problem noticed after one of their tuning sessions . Is this a posibiliyy or is this an excuse to avoid responsibility on their part ?
I have new 2021 Ram with a 5.7 Hemi bought new in May that has used anti freeze (not leaking) from day one. The dealer finally put dye in the coolant and after it set a few misfire codes they went into the number 6 cylinder and saw the colored coolant. It was not a head gasket and the cause has yet to be identified. They are currently replacing the motor with a new one approved by Ram.
2012 ram truck 5.7 hemi engine bought use with 110000. Engine problem warranty used 2 refurbish engine. Bought this truck july 202. I think the truck has been in my drive way maybe only 7 weeks. Got the truck back after 2nd engine two week ago. Once again engine light came back on. 11 2021. Engine is running ruff once again and you can smell coolant. The truck drives great but heck this could be engine warranty number 4 in engine number four in 5.months.spane.
there is one other problem with the 5.7 hemi. they will drop intake valve seats. i had to replace a piston and bought a set of remanufactured hp heads for 500.00 shipping and prepaid return for the old heads. I also put on a set of stainless headers. Wasn’t a hard job at all. My car is an 07 rt charger. had 179.000 miles when this happened. the new heads are guaranteed for life and have been modified so that this problem doesn’t happen again along with a 3 angle valve grind. just a little note. when i tore down the engine there were no ridges at the top of the cylander bores and even with all those miles we could still see cross hatch through the glaze in the cylanders. there was no wear anyplace we could detect.
2007 Ram 1500 133,000 miles, no major issues…….yet.
I’m getting ticking check engine light and a cylinder 3 misfire. Took to local mechanic shop. After replacing plugs coil after all that told me they are getting misfire code 3. And referred me to the dealer saying it could be a computer problem
Had a 08 ram1500 hemi, 150,000 when traded in on 13 ram1500 hemi. No problems ever. The 2013 did have exhaust manifold bolts break at around 100k. Dealer replaced both sides, around 500. Traded that at 140k for 2020 ram1500 hemi. The 13 was best vehicle I have ever owned ! (I’m 60 now) no troubles other that those broken bolts. We tow 7000lb travel trailer all over the USA. Work these trucks. The 20 is beautiful but it gets worked too. No troubles at 2 yrs into owning it.
I have a2015 Ram Big Horn with 60,000 miles on it! Warranty just ran out in December the one that covers the whole truck, I’ve had ticking for about 2 weeks Truck broke down this morning at Dealership I’ve done everything required maintenance wise,Had everything done at Dealer Every oil change etc , I’m actually just under 60,000 I’ll be back to let you know I owe$1900 on this truck pissing me off right now
I have a 2014 Dodge Durango Citadel and 5.7l Hemi. It is my tow vehicle for my 6200 gvwr RV. I do regular 4k Mobile 1 oil changes and bi annual radiator flush and annual transmission maintenance. Rear brake rotors wear it seems, plus the cowling over wiper motors is a problem, but plenty of power, no tick and sound is strong and consistent. Gas mileage sucks, but its not much different when I’m pulling the trailer 15/14.
HAVE A 2012 DODGE DURANGO WITH A 5.7 HEMI. HAVE OIL GETTING INTO THE RADIATOR. HEAD GASKET??
A leaking head gasket is usually the culprit of oil and coolant mixing. It’s not a very common issue on the 5.7 HEMI but sometimes things happen. Do you have any other symptoms like white smoke from the exhaust, overheating, etc.?
Regards,
Zach
I like the article, and the feedback of most people. Some of the people really don’t have a clue. Bottom line.,maintenance is the key, and I know people will not agree with me. Add Z-MAX to your oil I been using it since 2007 on my Chrysler 300 and I now have a 2022,I stand by what I am telling you. I find the product very good.
I have a 2017 Ram 1500 Sport 4X4. my main problem is every once in awhile the engine Surges just the other day i was pulling into a parking lot and waiting to park when the Engine surged my foot was on the brake and my truck decided it wanted to go! I pressed down harder on the brake and put it in park and turned it off; however previously i had the same thing happen and couldn’t keep it stopped and it went into a building and did quite a bit of damage. Thiis has happened several times and most of the time i have been able to control it, but i am tired of the problem the mechanics couldn’t find anything wrong. My one Mechanic washed the engine completely and it stopped until just the other day. My Wife and I are afraid that one of these times we might hit someone or go through a building and kill someone. The engine revs to full speed and is not safe I also took it to a Dealship and they couldn’t find anything wrong either.
Robert Keck
August 31 2023
Robert, that sounds like a very scary experience and certainly dangerous. The throttle position sensor and throttle body are two likely culprits. If it happened after you went wide-open throttle then I’d lean towards the 5.7 HEMI throttle body getting stuck open. However, since that isn’t what is happening, it seems the throttle position sensor would be the most likely bet.
Sometimes sensors have intermittent issues, especially when they’re on their way out. That could explain why your dealer & mechanic can’t find the problem. Normally, I wouldn’t suggest throwing money around without knowing the exact problem. However, given the severity and danger, I’d recommend replacing the throttle position sensor.
Regards,
Zach
We own a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit. It now has 62K miles. We’ve owned it since 2014 and it had 34K when we purchased it. The JEEP had the wrong dipstick so the previous owner ran 8 quarts instead of the normal 7 for the 34K. Maybe that saved the camshaft? I changed oil for the first time and 7 quarts was slightly below the add 1 quart mark. I ordered the correct dipstick. We drive the JEEP mostly on trips as we don’t like the vehicle as a grocery runner. We do have an intermittent HEMI tick. We change oil every year which is about 3500 miles freeway/interstate driving. Our neighbor takes the oil I drain, which still looks clean, filters it, and dumps it in his 2020 Subaru. We just switched to 5W-30 as it was recommended on another forum. We wonder if we should proactively have the lifters replaced before we lose a camshaft? We have always used Pennzoil Ultra synthetic oil. Right now, however, we are running Motul 5W-30. So have lifters replaced or take a chance?
I have an 05 Dodge RAM 1500 5.7, bought it new now have 61000 on it been pretty much up on maintenance as well, I have replaced egr at 20,000 miles replaced plugs at 43000 to champion irridium plugs. When I took all the plugs out I used an old pizza box put in the cylinder and coil on box with marker so I knew what cylinder it came out of and to look at plugs on how plugs and coil are fireing per cylinder. at the same concept check resistance per wire. needless to say I had to replace wires too. But when I checked gaps on old plugs the gaps I got were from 18 to 54 every single gap was off. I get some degree of change when used but never seen this in all my years. The next thing I did was change thermostat to 160, It keeps it cooler and wont wear down oil as fast. Plus I do normal maintance on throttle body pvc and so on. I have read all of everyone story, I hope mine is good for you.